Are you suffering from Attic Mold? Beware: Never Encapsulate/ paint dry ice Blast or Soda Blast!
If they are confronted with an issue with mold in the attic homeowners are often faced with the difficult task of tackling an issue that is far from the usual home improvement tasks. Eliminating attic mold isn’t like renovating a kitchen or bathroom or painting the house. Mold can be dangerous as well as living. In terms of getting rid of it , there is a lot of contradicting information available.
Many homeowners did not even realize there was a deadly bad smelling living space above their heads within their homes that was slowly eating the decking boards that make up the roof. Actually, over half of the problems with mold in attics that we see every day were found when the homeowner decided to sell their home.
We’ve witnessed numerous, and many, home sales fail completely due to the fact that a home inspector found mold in the attic which was feeding on the roofing boards. One of the primary reasons is that the color of the most commonly found attic-based mold just north of the Mason Dixon lines is the most feared color black. Many prospective buyers are scared off by this color of black mold and believe it’s “the toxic black mold” the stachybotrys chartarum that is feared by many. However, it is rarely the scenario. The thing that makes a mold black is melanin, the pigment that is an innocuous pigment that is that is found in our skins to guard us from harmful UV rays generated by sunlight. It also serves the same function in mold. Attic mold is hardly ever the harmful black mold, as attic mold tends to grow during winter months because of loss of heat, accompanied by inadequate or poorly built or installed roofing ventilation.
Ventilation Problems: How Mold Expands
When temperatures drop to freezing in winter, we turn on our home’s heating system. Naturally, the temperature rises. in the event that we do not have enough insulation, or when it’s too cold to keep pace with the loss of heat this hot air finds its way to the attic. When a roof’s ventilation is correctly, the hot air is directed out of the attic by the so-called outtake air vents. These vents are usually in the form of power vents in the form of boxes, box vents Gable end vents and ridge vents. To allow the vents for outtake air to function properly, the roof requires the intake vents. Vents that let colder air flow through the attic while hot air is pushed out by the outtake air vents.
If this is not the case, the hot air gets stuck in attic, and then coalesces against the cold and freezing roofing boards. The hot air mass that meets cold surfaces form of condensation, referred to as dewpoint and typically produces droplets of frost or water. The moisture initiates the process of growth of mold that eventually can lead to the development of attic mold.
Attic mold generally only appears during the winter months unless it’s caused by the very rare leak in the roof or a damp basement or crawlspace that is releasing water in the form of vapor up. The reason it is only growing in the five to six weeks of winter because during the remainder of the year, the temperatures that is attained in the attic is much too hot for the growth of aggressive mold.
When trying to figure out what steps to take to resolve the problem of mold in the attic homeowners are puzzled. Why? In obtaining multiple estimates for the cleanup the homeowner is frequently confronted with completely different options by local professionals who insist on their own method as “best” or “right”. There have been people who’ve received five to six estimates, each with five to six different “solutions” that left the homeowners with a headache about what to do, they are looking for the permanent elimination. The reason for numerous different approaches to cleaning up mold is directly due to being trained by mold authorities, or certification bodies or schools that do not actually define the products that should be used when. The average contractor also is not equipped with a sufficient knowledge of the actual processes of mold and its microbiological process.
Fix the leaks or vents:
When tackling any mold problem, it is essential to get rid of the cause of the moisture. And this requires addressing the airflow issues. The most popular method is to put in the ridge vent, we have found that they rarely let in the air as claimed. We suggest that box vents be placed near to the top as is possible. They almost never leak or block and are extremely efficient even though they have been discontinued. Then, ensure that you have enough intake air, in the form of the soffit vent. There’s no such thing as excessive soffit ventilation.
Killing The Mold means killing the Roots:
A major and often thought about and misunderstood elements to permanent mold elimination and removal is the killing of the mold’s roots. When people think about mold, they typically recall a memory of cheese or bread that is moldy. Human brains love to store memories through association. We think of the fuzzy things that we see at the top of the problem with mold like the actual mold. WRONG! The fuzzy material is actually the fruit-body , or the reproductive portion in the organism of mold. it is actually the seed. It’s not the apple but the tree! If we are looking to eliminate mold for good, we must get rid of the roots, which are the body for the organism. They are inaccessible by the naked eyes as they grow beneath the surface. Just like the tap-root of a dandelions develops below the surface of Earth. Similar to dandelions, we have to destroy the roots in order to kill the organism.
Most popular mold removal methods almost always fail to solve this problem. Many firms that handle mold removal actually fail because they don’t comprehend this fundamental premise. To eliminate the mold, you have to eliminate the roots. What can these firms do? There are a variety of strategies which are commonly employed, and they’re all unsuitable. A majority of businesses begin with biocide. It is typical to see this mentioned on every mold-related protocol. It is not often that the contractor mentions that 95 percent of these biocides don’t eliminate spores or kill them. They also don’t kill the roots. Many also contain a type of carcinogen that can cause cancer in laboratory animals! Then they apply an encapsulant, which actually is a way of painting the wood. This is a trap that is waiting to explode because the paint will create the vapor barrier, and eventually fall off. Because the paint contains poisons within it, it could cause a danger in the future similar to lead paint. It’s also a sure signal during an inspection that there is an issue with the attics. Attics are only allowed to are painted when there is the possibility of fire or mold. This also leaves moldy roots in good health in wait for the moisture. There are various of methods for sanding, that range from hand sanding to dry ice blasting or soda. The companies offering these techniques will inform you that they’re sanding away the mold’s roots. But this isn’t the case! The mold’s roots grow in the depths of wood for at minimum 3/16’s of an inch. If you tried to sand the wood this deep, you could result in an irreparable structural injury to your roof. What is the reason these people do this? They take off the pigment layer using these methods and then make the mold appear to disappear while keeping the roots intact and waiting for an opportunity to drink. Sanding firms typically charge an arm and leg to do this because it’s very labor intensive. It’s an effective method to remove stain, but it’s not a long-lasting way to remove mold.
The Perfect Attic System for removing Mold System:
The best attic mold removal method uses ventilation correction to get rid of the water source. It requires the use of biocide which is 100% natural, as well as an sporicide that is rated for porous substrates to kill mold. It also works on removing the stains and eliminating the tome evidence, so that the prospective homebuyer do not become frightened by the appearance of the mold issue was once present. The focus should be on killing the roots and preventing mold from coming back. The ideal method to accomplish this is to cover the decking or wood boards with non-toxic mineral salt , so that the roots of the previous ones suck into the salt, then go away and the new spores have no chance to start expanding. Also, it is recommended to use an inhibitor within the insulation to stop the dust that is accumulated from the growth of mold. In addition, researchers at Los Alamos National Laboratory proved it’s also necessary to utilize gas-out. This is done by filling the area with a gas that is able to penetrate the small spaces of an attic, where mold spores may be hidden, and then completely destroy the spores.